RallyCross:  Down and Dirty Grassroots
Competition 

---Intro---

SCCA-sanctioned RallyCross series have
attracted hundreds of wanna-be rally
stars from throughout the country. Rally
fans and other car enthusiasts can bring
their everyday car out to an event and
enjoy some of the flavor of true
performance Rallying with much less risk
of a high-speed "off."

---What is RallyCross?--- 

For many years various car clubs
throughout the country have held events
that could be considered much like
today's RallyCross. In 1998 RallyCross
officially became part of the SCCA Rally
system. Although officially recognized,
it took some time for various regions to
build their programs, and rules continue
to be in flux. RallyCross is currently a
fast growing part of the SCCA, and
offers an excellent introduction to
motorsports participation for Rally
fans. 

RallyCross combines the slippery
off-road excitement of performance Rally
with the accessibility of an entry-level
motorsport. In a RallyCross, like in
Autocross, you'll drive through a course
marked by traffic cones and incur a a
time penalty for knocking them over or
going off course. Unlike autocross, the
course is run on a loose surface like
dirt, grass, or gravel. Like Rally, your
time for each run is added to the
previous run's time, emphasizing
consistency. Your final event placement
is determined by the combination of all
your run's times plus penalties. 

While many in the SCCA originally
envisioned RallyCross as a stepping
stone to the Club- and ProRally series,
RallyCross has grown into its own viable
sport, with dedicated competitors vying
for series championships in a wide
variety of SCCA regions throughout the
country. 

Non-SCCA-affiliated clubs also still
sanction "RallyCross-like" events,
although the SCCA has the trademark on
that term. If your local club puts on a
"grass autocross" or some other
similarly-named event, it may be quite
similar to SCCA RallyCross, and is worth
checking into. 

---How RallyCross Events Operate--- 

For the first-time RallyCrosser, showing
up as a newbie at the event with no idea
of what to do can be a bit intimidating.
While no two clubs put on identical
events, some simple tips can help with
any event, and some of these are even
good reminders for the old-timers: 

Many clubs split the day into two
sessions, morning and afternoon, and two
run groups in each session. Some clubs
run more sessions, some clubs only run
one session per day. Generally, each
session will be split into two or more
roughly-equal run groups, so that an
equal number of the entrants are running
while the others are working. The
published schedule or flyer should
indicate which classes run during which
part of the day, so you know when you
should arrive. 

Show up early. Nothing ends your day
more quickly than being too late to get
registered. It's also always much better
to have plenty of time to do everything
than to be rushing around. 

Bring your own helmet. While most clubs
will provide loaner helmets, they're
usually in short supply and can be a
hassle. It's also much nicer to only
have to deal with your own sweat on your
head. Be sure to get a Snell-rated
helmet, as current as possible --
ideally Snell 2000. 

Get through registration and technical
inspection as soon as possible after
arrival. Some clubs require you to pass
the tech inspection before you're
allowed to register, others allow
registration first. Empty all loose
items out of your car (except your
helmet) before you take it to
inspection, and remember to bring money,
identification, and proof of club
affiliation (if any) to registration.
Make note of the scheduled times for the
drivers meeting and first car out, in
case they've changed from the
earlier-published times. 

Walk the course at least once,
preferably several times. Pay close
attention to any optional or complex
elements. Study the course map while
walking if the club provides one, and
ask more experienced folks if something
is confusing or if you're curious about
the best line to take. 

Attend the drivers meeting. Pay
attention to any additional rules or
possible last-minute course changes you
may not know about. You will probably be
given a work assignment at this point,
so be sure to note what it is and that
you understand your responsibilities. 

If you have to work first, grab your
coat or sunscreen and a bottle of water
and head out. You'll most likely be
standing out on course chasing cones
after the folks in the other half of
your run group knock them over. Working
first gives you the advantage of being
able to watch the way the other
competitors navigate the particular
portion of course you're working. Be
sure to pay attention to the cones
though, it's easy to miss that one has
been knocked over because you were
watching the car. 

If it's your turn to drive, head to your
car. Double-check that you've got your
helmet and anything else you might need
(a tire pressure gauge can be handy),
and head toward grid. If your club
assigns grid spots, proceed as
instructed by them. If you get to pick
your grid spot, this may be the most
important part of the event. If the
conditions are variable (especially for
clubs that use a water truck for dust
control), you need to try to be the last
car out. Unfortunately, everybody else
will also be trying to be the last car
out, so it'll be a bit tough. Hiding in
the porta-pottie is a convenient but
obvious solution that some of your
competitors might frown upon. 

Drive. As fast as possible, but
controlled. Avoid the cones. 

If you didn't work an assignment before,
you'll have to work now. Your fellow
competitors are relying on you to work
just like they did while you were
running. If you skip out on your work
assignment, you'll be found out and will
not be allowed to run another event. 

Attend the awards ceremony (if there is
one). If you're the amazing driver
everybody thinks they are, you probably
won a snazzy plastic trophy. If not,
you've got something to shoot for.  In
addition to event trophies,  most clubs
put on a several-event championship
series for the year. This requires a bit
more commitment, and can involve more
strategy as well. 

You'll generally need to run a minimum
number of events to qualify for the
championship. You'll also need to pay
more attention to your car's
preparation, since it's more likely your
series competitors will be preparing
their cars, and also scrutinizing
anybody else's they think might be
pushing the limits of the rules. 

The season champion will be determined
by a points system of some kind. Many
clubs use the SCCA ClubRally points
system, shown below: 

1st: 20 points
2nd: 18
3rd: 16
4th: 14
5th: 12
6th: 10
7th: 9
8th: 8
9th: 7
10th: 6
11th: 5
12th: 4
13th: 3
14th: 2
15th: 2

If you plan on running your region's
championship series, check with them to
see what points system they use. 

---Understanding the Rules--- 

While there is a limited national SCCA
RallyCross rule set based on the car
classification rules from ClubRally,
most clubs make minor adjustments to fit
better with RallyCross competitors in
normal street cars. Many clubs prohibit
lifted trucks and other tippy vehicles
for safety reasons, but almost any other
hardtop vehicle can be brought out to an
event and have a place to compete. 

Some clubs limit certain classes to
street tires only (no grufty rally, mud,
or snow tires) to even out the
competition amongst "run what you brung"
competitors. Other clubs utilize a
"semi-stock" or similar class so that a
street car with a cold-air intake
doesn't get bumped directly into Open
class against full rally cars. Some
clubs also forego the normal rally
"turbo inlet restrictor" limitations for
turbocharged street cars. Be sure to
check with your local club to find out
if they have any particular rules that
will affect you. 

---Vehicle Classification---

Most RallyCross organizations base their
vehicle classification system on SCCA's
existing ClubRally class guidelines. 
These guidelines include classes for
everything from bone stock two-wheel
drive compact cars to professionally
built AWD rally machines.  Some clubs
even provide a place for trucks and SUVs
to play.

Unlike SCCA's Solo or Roadracing
guidelines, however, Club Rally classes
are not defined by a listing of
applicable cars for each class. 
Instead, rally classes are defined by
the adjusted engine displacement of a
vehicle, and in some cases the number of
drive wheels.  Adjusted engine
displacement is a way of equalizing the
performance ability of various engine
types (such as four-valve per cylinder,
forced induction, rotary etc.) to help
equalize the playing field using
mathematical formulas.  Although it's
simple from a mathematics standpoint,
it's not as easy as it might seem to
properly classify a vehicle if it's the
first time you've seen it, and you're
standing in the rain in front of a
registration desk at 7:00 am, with no
coffee. 

Keeping things fairly stock, Production
(P) and Production GT  (PGT) classes
cater to cars with limited
modifications.  Production allows for
both 2WD and 4WD cars, with a maximum
adjusted engine displacement of 2,650cc.
 PGT ups the engine size for cars with
adjusted engine displacements greater
than 2,650cc.  Most small two-wheel
drive cars, such as Honda Civics, Nissan
Sentras, and Dodge Neons fit into
Production, while PGT is home to more
powerful machinery, like Subaru's 2.5RS
and WRX, and the DSM triplets.  

Regardless of the class, all Production
cars are limited when it comes to
performance modifications.  In the
interest of durability and safety,
struts and springs may be replaced with
aftermarket equipment, but horsepower-building mods are off limits.  To help
minimize expenses for these two entry
level classes, many organizations
restrict both Production classes to
running street tires, which are defined
as not having tread gaps greater than
0.225 inches running horizontal to the
tread.

For two-wheel drive cars with greater
modifications, SCCA's Group 2 and Group
5 classes are a good fit.  Group 2
allows normally aspirated 2WD cars  with
a maximum adjusted engine displacement
of 2,400cc or less.  Popular G2 cars
include Nissan's venerable Sentra SE-R,
VW Golf Gti, and even older models like
Saab 99 and 900s.  Group 5 is home for
cars with more than 2,400cc but less
than ,5100cc adjusted engine
displacement, and allows forced
induction.  Basically, a catch-all class
for serious horsepower two-wheel drive
machines, with everything from Mustangs
to RX7s to turbo-charged Volvos.  

The least restrictive rally class is
Open, which is essentially an anything
goes class that allows for serious
modifications to the engine, suspension,
and braking systems.  Like Group 5,
there is a restriction placed on engine
size, with a maximum adjusted engine
displacement set at 5,100cc.  The most
popular cars include Mitsubishi Lancers
and Subaru Impreza WRXs, including the
full factory manufacturers cars.

Because of the confusion associated with
vehicle classification, some clubs have
added classes that do away with this
system. If your club uses the adjusted
engine displacement for vehicle
classification, and if you have a common
car, it's probably easiest to ask your
fellow competitors where you should be.

---Tricks of the Trade---

As with most sports, competitors are
always looking for those little
advantages that can give them the edge. 
If you're not the
ultra-competitive type, some of the
following tips can still help you
go faster and have more fun.

Probably the single biggest improvement
that can be made to a car for
RallyCross is the addition of suitable
off-road tires.  For those with
unlimited funds, searching out the "big
name" Rally tires (Pirelli,
Michelin, etc.)  is an option.  For
those with a more modest budget,
some of the less expensive rally tires
such as those offered by
Silverstone or Kumho are a good choice. 
For those on a tight budget,
purchasing used rally tires from a Club-
or ProRally team is a
possibility, but for similar money you
may be able to find a brand-new
set of cheap "mud and snow" tires that
will perform quite well.

Regardless of what tires you use,
finding the proper pressure for them
is important to maximize grip.  In low
traction situations, lower
pressure generally enhances grip.  Be
wary of lowering pressures too
much, because the cornering forces can
roll the tire right off the
rim.  Tires with stiffer sidewalls can
handle lower pressures without
deforming themselves so much they come
off the rim.  A safe bet is to
start with 5 pounds less than you would
run on the street, and lower
it in small increments if you feel you
need less than that.

One of the the best and easiest setup
tips for RallyCrossing is to
tape down the e-brake button.  If your
car has a standard center-pull
emergency brake handle with the button
on the end, and if it operates
the rear brakes, this setup can be a
lifesaver in those
terminal-understeer situations common on
a muddy RallyCross course.
To implement this, simply use some tape
to securely hold the
emergency-brake release button in the
"in" position.  Standard
electrical tape works best and leaves
the least amount of residue when
removed.  Once the button is taped down,
it allows the rear brakes to
be applied in quick bursts, without the
possibility of the brake
getting stuck on and causing a spin. 
With some practice, this
technique can be used quite effectively
to reduce understeer on corner
entry and help make it through tight
sections of the course.  This is
most effective when the brake is used
only briefly to initiate some
rear sliding.  Once you've got the turn
initiated, you can modulate the
car's attitude with the throttle -- too
much e-brake will cause
excessive oversteer and a spin. 
Obviously you will need to be sure
your emergency-braking system is up to
any added stress this may cause
it, and that using it in this manner
will not adversely affect other
parts of your car's drivetrain.

Continuing with the effective use of
tape, another place to use some
is to mark the center of your steering
wheel.  For this you'll need to
use tape that is a contrasting color to
your steering wheel.  Simply
center your steering wheel and wrap
a section of tape at the "North
pole" of the wheel.  This spot of color
will let you easily tell
exactly where your wheels are pointing
when you're sliding around on
course.  This can be very useful when
setting up a corner exit.

Another item that will help make you
"one with your car" is a safety
harness.  While the safety aspect of a
four (or more) point harness is
debatable without the use of a rollcage,
there is no denying that a
harness will help hold you in your seat.
 When you're firmly planted
in your seat, your feet and hands are
left free to work the pedals,
wheel, shifter, and e-brake handle like
they should be.  This is most
definitely a worthy investment, and many
of the available harnesses
can be tucked out of the way when
they're not in use making them
convenient to use only when needed.

As with other motorsports, careful
attention should be paid to
suspension tuning.  If you're lucky
enough to have items like
adjustable springs and dampers on your
car, you'll need to fine tune
them to find the best performance. 
While we don't have room to go
into too many details here, a softer
suspension will generally help in
low traction situations.  Even if you
don't have high-end adjustable
rally suspension, most cars have several
alignment adjustments
available to them.  Simply making sure
your alignment is within
factory specifications is a good place
to start.  For the more
dedicated racer, some extra front
negative camber and some rear
toe-out can be used to reduce understeer
and help get the car turning.
Improper alignment can lead to
horrendous tire wear, and can be
dangerous on the street.  If you plan on
changing your alignment
settings beyond factory specs, be sure
you know what you're doing and
can return the settings back to where
they're supposed to be for
street driving.

While less of a performance advantage,
an item that can lend
peace-of-mind to your RallyCross
experience is a skidplate.  Available
for many cars from the dealer or
aftermarket, both front and rear
skidplates can help give you that warm
fuzzy feeling when blasting
through a section of ruts or even when
avoiding a stray piece of
debris on the highway.

One last tip -- after you're done with
the event, you'll probably have
mud and grass wedged in places you
didn't know your car had.  A
thorough cleaning of the undercarriage
and suspension should be a
priority to ensure that dirt doesn't
trap excess moisture and cause
undue rust.  It's also embarrassing to
leave chunks of dirt all over
the asphalt at the autocross the next
day...




---Owner Profile:  Jeffrey Templeton---

The SCCA couldn't have chosen a better
candidate than Jeffrey Templeton when it
comes to spotlighting the progression of
one of its members through the
autocross, RallyCross, and ClubRally
system.  Jeffrey attended his first
autocross event in the summer of 2000,
in a Toyota Celica.  Soon after, Jeffrey
began running his own car, a 2000 Subaru
Impreza 2.5RS regularly at St. Louis
Region SCCA events, which even lead him
to his first trip to the National
Championships in September of 2003.

In that time, Jeffrey discovered the
sport of RallyCross, and considering his
all-wheel drive Subaru was perfectly
suited to the dirt, mud, and muck of
your typical RallyCross event, he
quickly became hooked on the sport. 
"What I like about RallyCross," explains
Jeffrey, "is that it is a safe and cheap
way to play in the dirt.  I've always
liked rally and this is a fantastic way
to learn the basics of loose-surface
driving and car setup, with the added
benefit of not sliding into trees or
worrying about other traffic on a public
road."
   
Jeffrey's weapon of choice, for both
autocross and RallyCross events - his
Impreza 2.5RS - runs in SCCA's G-stock
category of autocrossing, which means
he's fairly limited when it comes to
all-out car prep.  Luckily though,
according to Jeffrey, "The Impreza is
really setup quite well from the factory
to make the most of dirt or gravel.  It
is quite neutral, with a bit of a
tendency to understeer on turn-in,
though nothing a little left foot
braking or a dab of the handbrake won't
cure."  

When it comes to chassis setup, Jeffrey
adds "I run a similar setup for both
autocross and RallyCross.  The alignment
is the same, with maximum negative
camber front and rear - achieved with
the stock camber bolts - and 1/16-inch
toe-out in the front and 1/8-inch
toe-out in the rear."  Since Jeffrey's
car runs the popular KYB AGX struts,
which have 4-position adjustability in
the front, and 8-positions in the rear,
he's found that a good combination for
RallyCross events is 2F/5R, which is
also what he runs on the street.

For RallyCross events, Jeffrey installs
a set of 15x7-inch (53+mm offset)
Raceline RL-7 wheels wrapped with
205/60-15 Kumho R700 rally tires.  "I
try to keep the tire pressures around
30-32psi, though I don't expend a lot of
energy checking them since it really
doesn't make that much difference,
unlike autocross where tire pressures
are critical," according to Jeffrey.

For a little added power Jeffrey's
installed a K&N filter in the stock
airbox and an OMP Group N spec 2.25-inch
cat-back exhaust.  ATE Superblue brake
fluid and EBC redstuff brake pads help
slow things down.  To help protect his
ride, Jeffrey has installed a Primitive
Enterprises 1/8-inch front skidplate, a
Subaru Accessories rear differential
protector, STi foglight covers, and
urethane mudflaps.

All of these mods add up to produce a
fun daily driver that can duke it out
equally well on concrete or loose
surfaces.  Jeffrey regularly battles for
top time at RallyCross events, and this
competitive drive has led him to joining
forces with the PFM Racing Group, where
he'll be (driving, navigating,
crewing???) for the teams ClubRally
prepped Group 2 Volkswagon Golf, which
is being debuted at the Headwaters Rally
in May.  And despite this being his
first ClubRally event, Jeffrey will be
able to use his experiences gained from
autocross and RallyCross, to bring it
across the finish line in a fast and
safe manner.